满族 · Manchu

苏兰朵《记忆》

Randot Su
Memory

📝 作者简介 · Author Bio

苏兰朵,满族,一级作家,中国作协会员。着有小说集《寻找艾薇儿》《白熊》《嗨皮人》,长篇小说《声色》《吉祥如意》,诗集《碎·碎念》,随笔集《听歌的人最无情》《曳航船》等。曾获全国少数民族文学创作骏马奖、中国作家出版集团奖、中国散文年会奖、林语堂小说奖、辽宁文学奖等奖项。曾就职于媒体与大学,现居沈阳。

Randot Su, Manchu, is a first-class writer and a member of the Chinese Writers Association. She has written a collection of novels, Looking for Avril Lavigne, The White Bear, Happy Man; the novel Voice, Good Luck; a collection of poems, "Broken Thoughts"; essays, "People Who Listen to Songs are the Most Ruthless" and "Towed Ships" and so on. She has won the National Ethnic Minority Literature Horse Award, Chinese Writers Publishing Group Award, China Prose Annual Award, Lin Yutang Novel Award, and Liaoning Literature Award. She once worked in the media and at a university and now lives in Shenyang. Museums are repositories of memories. Stepping into the Manchu Ethnic Museum of Xiuyan, you first see the Manchu Origin Exhibition Hall. Here, more than 300 precious historical photos and painti

中文原文 Chinese Source Text

走进岫岩满族博物馆,首先看到的是满族源流展厅。这里以300多幅珍贵的历史照片和绘画作品,全面地再现了满族及其先祖在各个不同历史时期的生活概貌。

在满族民俗这一部分,你会看到一处详细复原的旧式满族民居。屋里有满族人标志性的万字炕。南炕、北炕宽敞,可以住人,西边的窄炕用来供祖宗板。炕上铺着金黄油亮的炕席,炕沿是原木的。想来是被无数双手在坐下时抚摸过,木头十分光滑。侧面对开门的炕琴,镶着手绘花鸟的彩色玻璃。炕琴上摞着被褥和枕头。南方人可能无法想象,迭被子也曾是东北人的一项专门劳动。一般来说,都由家里未出嫁的姑娘完成。比如我小的时候,每天早晨起床后,都要把所有人的被褥和枕头叠好,摞到炕琴上。这不是一件简单的事。想要叠得整齐,又保证不掉下来,是个技术活儿。家里人口多的话,被垛就几乎顶到了棚顶。除了病人,谁都不能睡懒觉。因为炕要打扫干净,放上炕桌,一家人围着吃早饭。炕的功能是很多的。早饭过后,灶膛里扒出来的木炭火会被装进铸铁的火盆,端到炕上。在严寒的冬季,一家人就靠着火盆和火炕上的余温取暖。火盆里也可以埋上土豆或者地瓜,熟了的时候,满屋都是香气。那时的冬天,我从未感觉过冷,也从不会寂寞。孩子们可以坐在火炕上玩嘎拉哈,老人可以在炕上玩纸牌,大姑娘小媳妇坐在炕梢,倚在炕琴上,纳鞋底,绣花。邻居们喜欢互相串门,白天聊一聊东家长西家短,晚上就点上煤油灯,讲一些狐仙、黄大仙的鬼怪故事。

除了土豆、地瓜和炭火,这间展厅里有我前面提到的所有对象。至少在20世纪70年代,展厅里的风貌还是东北农村的寻常景象。

在这间能勾起很多东北人童年记忆的展厅里,外地人还可以亲眼见识到“东北三大怪”——窗户纸糊在外、姑娘叼着大烟袋、养个孩子吊起来。

窗户纸不是普通的纸。从前,东北民间有专门制作窗户纸的纸房子。我在小说《立冬》中有过描述:“……所谓剁绳头子,是造麻纸的第一道工序。就是将原料先剁碎。原料包括芦苇、蒲棒草、花麻、线麻以及一些废旧的绳头子。这活虽然不需要什么技术,但也讲究个细心和耐心。因为剁得越碎,纸造出来就越细腻结实。”这种纸我小时候见过。因为里面充满了纤维,所以不容易被撕破。窗户纸为什么要糊在外面?其实是个物理问题。因为东北的冬天极为严寒,所以室内外温差很大。窗户处在冷热交织的中心,朝着屋里的那一面会经常产生水汽。如果将窗户纸糊在里面,肯定要被水汽浸泡脱落。条件好一些的人家还要将窗户纸掸上苏子油,既防水,又透光。我读小学的时候,窗户都用上了玻璃。但窗户纸在东北并未绝迹。它有了个新用途——溜窗缝。将窗户纸裁成条状,抹上糨糊,贴在所有能进风的缝隙上——当然,还是糊在外面。那时的中小学生,每年入冬前,都在学校里参加过这项劳动。

展厅里实景民居的窗户,是标准的传统两扇式格子窗。上面一扇向上开,房梁上吊下来个钩子,可以将窗扇钩住。小的时候,我的爷爷经常在睡觉之前关上窗户,将他的裤子挂在那个钩子上。下面的窗扇是插在木窗框上的。到了夏天,将窗扇从窗框里抽出来,风就可以无拘无束地吹进来。我呢,也可以无拘无束地从窗口直接跳到外面去。每到那时刻,我都觉得窗子一下子大了好多。

离炕琴不远的地方,从房梁上吊下来一个婴儿悠车。悠车一般是木质的,椭圆形,两端上翘,像秋千一样吊在炕沿的上方。每个小婴儿睡悠车的时间都不长。因为一旦他学会了坐着,就很容易从里面掉出来。每个孩子在学会了走路之后,都会特别迷恋悠车。对他来说,那就是他梦寐以求的玩具,是这世上最舒服的地方。但是,这时候,那里面通常已经睡着更小的弟妹了。他们还不懂得享受这个玩具,只知道睡觉。我一直觉得悠车是一种有点残忍的东西。不过,满族人在发明它的时候,却完全源于父母对孩子的保护和爱。《关东旧风俗》记载,满族人游猎尚未定居时,因山林中毒蛇野兽出没,把不会走路的小孩放在地上不安全。于是,他们便想出“吊起来”的办法,用兽皮制成兜状的吊袋,两端挂在林中大树上。

满族服饰厅展出了各种满族先民服饰、清代满族服饰以及各种饰品。其中,清光绪晚期的缎面马甲、清末的靰鞡鞋、清代的偏方都很有满族特色。在琳琅满目的展品中,我注意到一件以前没有见过的织物——补子。补子也被称为“胸背”或“官补”,是明清时期在官服胸前或后背上织缀的一块圆形或方形织物。根据官位不同,纹样形式也不同。这块补子是清代的,图案是一只猛兽,而非飞禽,因而可以推知这块补子的主人是一名武官。补子是封建等级制度最典型的标志。就拿清代武官的补子来说,一品的纹样是麒麟,二品是狮,三品是豹,四品是虎,五品为熊,六品为彪,七品、八品犀牛,九品为马。透过这件轻薄的小小织物,我们可以窥见封建官场令人窒息的尊卑等级,它被统治者化身成一个个抽象的符号,时时刻刻鞭策着人,也捆缚着人。

服饰厅里还有件有趣的藏品——肚兜。满族男女老幼皆戴肚兜。贴在胸前,系于腰腹。满人制作肚兜很讲究,兜嘴按本旗所属的颜色,镶一寸宽彩色布条,绣上吉祥字和图案。小孩子绣上长命百岁,成年男人绣吉祥如意,女人则绣花卉。如遇本命年,则一律穿戴红肚兜。

满族民间文化艺术展厅应该是最引人注目的展厅了。这里面展示的满族民间剪纸、皮影和刺绣,都在2008年被列入了国家级非物质文化遗产名录。

满族刺绣最具有代表性的是“枕头顶绣”。在保存下来的满族民间刺绣作品中,枕头顶绣品类最全、佳作最多。

过去,在满族的婚礼上,新娘要把自己绣的枕头顶绷在苫布帘子上“晾嫁妆”,并由亲友们品评。婚礼后,新娘还要将枕头顶作为见面礼送给婆婆或妯娌,以使自己融入这个家庭。收到的人会将枕头顶珍藏起来,作为纪念之物。有的则会在将来女儿长大成亲时,作为家珍相赠。还有的人会在自己临终时将枕头顶随葬或一起火化。由此可见枕头顶刺绣在满族妇女的一生中所占有的重要位置。

满族刺绣最具特色的技法是割绣。是把两个厚挺一些的面料紧贴一起,在绷子上固定好,待绣好图案后,用利刀从中间割开,形成两个花色相同、构图对称的绣品。割绣技法在枕头顶刺绣中运用得尤其广泛。

皮影戏在明清时期传入岫岩,至今已有300多年的历史。岫岩皮影与普通皮影的区别,在于它传承和发展了满族特有的文化,因而具有鲜明的民族特征和地域特色。

English Translation 英文译文

Museums are repositories of memories.

Stepping into the Manchu Ethnic Museum of Xiuyan, you first see the Manchu Origin Exhibition Hall. Here, more than 300 precious historical photos and paintings comprehensively recreate the life of the Manchu people and their ancestors in different historical periods.

In the part of Manchu folk customs, you will see a detailed reconstruction of an old Manchu house. The house has the Manchu people's iconic Swastika kang (Wanzi kang). The south and north kangs are spacious and can accommodate people, while the narrow kang on the west is used to offer ancestral tablets. The kang is covered with a golden and bright kang mat, and the kang edge is made of logs. It must have been touched by countless hands when sitting down, and the wood is very smooth. On the side of the open-door kang bed cabinet (kangqin) is colourful glass with hand-painted flowers and birds. On the kangqin, there are quilts and pillows stacked up. Southerners may be unable to imagine that stacking quilts was once a particular labour for Northeasterners. It was completed by unmarried girls in the family. For example, when I was young, every morning after getting up, I had to stack everyone's quilts and pillows on the kangqin. This is not a simple matter. It takes skill to fold neatly and ensure it doesn't fall off. The quilt pile almost reaches the roof if many people are in the family. Except for the sick, no one can sleep in. Because the kang needs to be cleaned and the kang table needs to be placed, the whole family gathers around to eat breakfast. The kang has so many uses. After breakfast, the charcoal fire from the stove will be put into the cast iron fire basin and brought to the kang. In the cold winter, the whole family relies on the heat of the fire basin and the kang to keep warm. Potatoes or sweet potatoes can also be buried in the fire basin. When they are cooked, the whole house is full of fragrance. At that time, I never felt cold, nor was I ever lonely. Children can sit on the kang and play Galah; older people can play cards on the kang; the big girls and young wives can sit on the kang and lean on the kangqin, sew shoes, and embroider. Neighbours like to visit each other, chat freely during the day, and light the kerosene lamp at night to tell some fox fairy and Huang Daxian's ghost stories.

In addition to potatoes, sweet potatoes, and charcoal, this exhibition hall contains all the objects I mentioned. At least in the 1970s, the scenery in the exhibition hall was still the familiar scene of the Northeast countryside.

In this exhibition hall that can evoke many Northeast people's childhood memories, outsiders can also witness the "Three Weird Things of the Northeast" - windows covered with paper on the outside, girls carrying big tobacco bags, and children hung up.

The window paper is not ordinary. In the past, unique paper houses in the Northeast were made of window paper. I have described it in the novel "Lidong": "The so-called shredding rope head is the first process of making hemp paper. That is, the raw materials are cut first. The raw materials include reeds, bulrush, hemp, linen, and old rope heads. This work does not require any technology but also carefulness and patience. The finer it is cut, the finer and firmer the paper. " I have seen this kind of paper when I was young. Because it is full of fibres, it is not easy to tear. Why should the window paper be pasted outside? It is a physical problem. Because the winter in the Northeast is freezing, the temperature difference between indoors and outdoors is very large. The window is at the centre of the cold and hot interweave, often producing water vapour towards the inside of the house. If the window paper is pasted inside, it will be soaked and fall off. People with better conditions must also brush the window paper with Perilla seed oil, which is waterproof and transparent. In elementary school, the windows were all made of glass. But the window paper has not disappeared in the northeast. It has a new use - window sills. Cut the window paper into strips, spread the paste, and stick it on all the air-permeable gaps - of course, still paste it outside. At that time, elementary and middle school students participated in this work before entering winter every year.

The windows of the real-life folk houses in the exhibition hall are standard traditional lattice windows with two shutters. One shutter opens, and a hook is hung down from the beam, which can hook the shutter. When I was young, my grandfather often closed the window before bed and hung his pants on the hook. The lower shutter is inserted into the wooden window frame. The shutter can be pulled from the window frame in summer, and the wind can blow in freely. I can also jump out of the window freely. Every time, I feel that the window suddenly becomes much more significant.

Not far from the kangqin, a baby cradle was hung from the house's beams. The cradle was usually made of wood, oval-shaped, with both ends curved up as a swing hung above the kangqin. Each baby didn't stay in the cradle for long. Once he learned to sit, it was easy for him to fall out of it. After learning to walk, every child was particularly fond of the cradle. For him, it was the toy of his dreams, the most comfortable place in the world. But by then, there was usually a younger sibling sleeping inside. They didn't know how to enjoy the toy; they just learned how to sleep. I always felt that the cradle was a bit cruel. However, when the Manchu invented it, it was entirely out of their parents' protection and love for their children. According to the "Old Customs of East China", when the Manchu people were still hunting and not settled, it was unsafe to put the children who couldn't walk on the ground because of the poisonous snakes and wild animals in the mountains and forests. So, they came up with the idea of "hanging up", making a pouch-shaped cradle out of animal skin and hanging it on a big tree in the forest.

The Manchu Costume Hall displays various costumes of the Manchu ancestors, the costumes of the Qing Dynasty, and multiple accessories. Among them are the satin vest of the late Guangxu period of the Qing Dynasty, the Wula-Sedge shoes of the late Qing Dynasty, and the Qing Dynasty's flat square, which are all very Manchu. Among the dazzling exhibits, I noticed a fabric I had never seen before - Buzi. Buzi is also known as "chest back" or "official patch", a round or square fabric woven on the chest or back of the official uniform in the Ming and Qing Dynasties. According to different official positions, the patterns are also different. This patch is from the Qing Dynasty, and the pattern is of a fierce beast, not a bird, so it can be inferred that the patch owner is a military officer. The patch is the most typical symbol of the feudal rank system. Taking the patch of the army officers in the Qing Dynasty as an example, the pattern of the first grade is Qilin, the second grade is Lion, the third grade is Leopard, the fourth grade is Tiger, the fifth grade is Bear, the sixth grade is Mink, the seventh and eighth grade are Rhinoceros, and the ninth grade is Horse. Through this thin and small fabric, we can glimpse the suffocating hierarchy of the feudal officialdom. It was embodied by the rulers as an abstract symbol, constantly whipping people and binding people.

The clothing store also has an exciting collection - the tummy pouch. Manchu men and women of all ages wear tummy pouches. It is attached to the chest and tied around the waist and abdomen. Manchu people are very particular about making tummy pouches. The mouth of the pouch is according to the colour of the banner it belongs to, with a one-inch-wide coloured strip embroidered with auspicious words and patterns. Children embroider longevity and a hundred years of life, adult men embroider auspicious wishes, and women embroider flowers. If it is the year of their birth, they all wear red tummy pouches.

The Manchu Folk Culture and Art Exhibition Hall should be the most eye-catching. The Manchu folk papercuts, shadow puppets and embroidery displayed here were included in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List 2008.

The most representative of Manchu embroidery is "pillow-top-embroidery". In the preserved Manchu folk embroidery works, pillow top embroidery has the most complete categories and the most excellent works.

In the past, at Manchu weddings, the bride had to hang her own embroidered pillow top on the canopy curtain to "Show Her Dowry" and be judged by relatives and friends. After the wedding, the bride also had to give the pillow top to her mother-in-law or sister-in-law as a meeting gift to integrate into the family. The recipient will keep the pillow top as a souvenir. Some will give it to their daughter when she grows up and gets married. Others will bury or cremate the pillow top when they are about to die. This shows the critical position of pillow top embroidery in the life of Manchu women.

The most characteristic technique of Manchu embroidery is cut embroidery. It is to press two thick fabrics tightly together, fix them on the frame, and cut them in the middle with a sharp knife to form two embroideries with the same colour and symmetrical composition after embroidering the pattern. Cut embroidery is widely used in pillow top embroidery.

Shadow play was introduced to Xiuyan in the Ming and Qing Dynasties and has more than 300 years of history. The difference between the Xiuyan shadow play and ordinary shadow play lies in its inheritance and development of Manchu's unique culture; thus, it has distinct national and regional characteristics.

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