陶玉明《远方的故乡》
📝 作者简介 · Author Bio
陶玉明,布朗族,云南双江人,中国作协会员,先后获“全国少数民族文学创作骏马奖”、“云南少数民族文学精品奖”等奖项,着有《我的乡村》《远方的家园》《回首望故乡》等多部作品,现任临沧市作协主席。
Tao Yuming, a member of the Blang ethnic group from Shuangjiang, Yunnan, is a distinguished member of the Chinese Writers Association. He has received accolades such as the "National Ethnic Minority Literary Creation Horse Award" and the "Yunnan Ethnic Minority Literary Excellence Award." Tao Yuming has authored numerous works, including "My Village," "Hometown Far Away," and "Looking Back at My Hometown." He currently serves as the chairman of the Lincang Writers Association.
中文原文 Chinese Source Text
我的老家地处云贵高原的西南边缘,村寨坐落在澜沧江西岸的一座山梁上。湛蓝的天空、洁白的云朵、碧绿的江水、土灰色的民居,让这个古老山寨显得更加沧桑而悲凉。
沧桑而悲凉的不仅是这块土地,还有我颠沛流离的身躯和灵魂。老家的这块土地无论是在中国版图上还是在云南地图里,我都无法找到她所处的准确位置,因为,她比针尖还小。站在高高的山岗上瞭望故乡,阳光灼伤我的双眼,家乡几代人经历的苦难像针尖一样刺痛我的心。
我从未在外人面前提到过老家的地名。因为,在我所听到过的乡村地名中,老家的地名是最土气的一个。那土得掉渣的村名也许是在那遥远的时代,部落民族在苦难中发出的声音。
老家的村名沿用的是古老的少数民族地名。那个时候,汉语还远远没有流传到这个村寨,现在用汉语翻译出来,意思大致是“用土罐背水的地方”。与水有关的村庄用土罐背水,足见水的稀缺。
浩浩荡荡的澜沧江最富饶的就是水,然而,地处澜沧江边的老家,水比眼泪更稀缺。
土罐是老家人最早使用的生活用品,可以用来熬煮食物,可以用来盛水,可以用来储存贵重物品,也可以用来安放亡者的骨灰。在原始社会时期,最早用于祭祀活动,用于放置祖先的灵物,考古学家将其命名为“濮罐”。
考古学家认为,凡是有“濮罐”的地方,就曾经有这个古老民族存在,凡是这个古老民族生活过的地方,就一定会找到濮罐的碎片。从“濮罐”和人类活动遗址的发掘上看,古代濮人已经在这个地方生活了3000多年。在一个村庄,3000年用土罐背水,背的哪里是水呢,是苦涩的泪。
在老家的少数民族语言中,家乡的这个地名也许是全世界的人都无法听懂的“鸟语”。学了一辈子的汉语,我试图用汉字来书写老家的名字,但我无法找到最准确的词语。也许,造字专家压根就没有发明出这个词语来。有一位民族学专家曾经让我用本民族的语言把老家的地名读出来让他跟着读,他跟着我学读了三遍,结果他的发音无论怎么纠正,还是像夜猫的叫声。我不知道,这样的发音在国际音标中能否标注出来。
家乡毕竟是我的家乡,故土毕竟是养育我的母土,唯其如此,我打算为她写上一段文字。
我的家乡山高坡抖,沟壑纵横。质地坚硬的岩石是山的骨骼,黝黑乌灰的泥土是山的肌肤,如泪水般晶莹的流泉是山的血脉,在崖缝中艰难生存的植被是山的毛发。
老家山多,但地无三尺平,路无三丈宽,地形地貌千姿百态,山的命名也千奇百怪。有的山以形貌命名,如仙人山、马鞍山、牛头山、磨盘山;有的山以色彩命名,如大黑山、大青山、红土山、黄土山;有的山以人物命名,如艾宝山、尼章山、布腊山、月娥山;有的山以动物命名,如马鹿山、麂子山、豹子山、猴子山、岩羊山;有的山以树木命名,如麻栗山、橄榄山、松树山、白花山、樱桃山、桦树山、芒果山;有的山以石头命名,如大石头山、小石头山、石板山、石墩山;有的山以神话传说和故事命名,如公主山、征战山、买牛山、歇马山。每一座山都有一段神话,每一块地都有一个故事。这些神话和故事滋养着故乡人的灵魂,让老家人坚信,家乡的这块土地是人神共居的家园。
在布朗族的神话中,有一个名为《顾米亚》的传说。相传,很久很久以前,宇宙间没有天和地,到处是一团团黑沉沉的、飘来飘去的云雾。有一条巨大的犀牛与云为友,与雾作伴,在无限的空间自由地遨游。神巨人顾米亚和他的十二个孩子剥下牛皮做成天,用美丽的云彩给天做衣裳;挖下牛眼做成星星,让它们在天上闪闪发光;又把牛肉做成的,把牛骨头变成石头;把牛血变成水;把牛尾巴变成各种花草树木;最后他们把犀牛的脑浆变成人,把犀牛的骨髓变成各种鸟、兽、虫、鱼。天悬在上,地悬在下,不保险。于是顾米亚又将犀牛的四腿做柱子托住天,抓一条大鳌鱼托住地。(因此有地震是鳌鱼活动之说)于是,天稳当了,地牢固了。天上布满了美丽的云彩、亮晶晶的星星,地上的人们辛勤地劳动着,小鸟在空中飞翔,蜜蜂在花丛中歌唱,黄麂在山坡上奔跑,鱼儿在水里游玩。想必,在那远古的年代,老家的这些山就已经形成了。从这些山的命名来看,在远古的时代,老家的这块土地一定是森林茂密、动物繁盛、人神共居的地方。这些大大小小的山,像一蒸笼馒头一样布满家乡那块方圆不足百里的土地。每至春夏之交,雨季来临,馒头状的山岭和丘壑便会蒸腾起袅袅的烟雾,穷山瘦水也会让人联想到梦幻般的秘境来。
老家人靠山吃山,是这些名不见经传的山哺育了一代又一代的故乡人。
山顶上有草坪,那是老家人放牛的地方。放牛场离村子近则七八里地,远则十几里。放牛的人从早上天刚蒙蒙亮,吃了一点早饭就要把牛赶出去,到晚上天黑了才能赶着牛回到家。回来早了,那牛吃不饱草食。午饭是要用篾盒盛着从家里带去的。说是午饭,其实也不过是一块苞谷面做的粑粑而已。为了节约劳动力,几家人的牛统一由一个人去看管。一般情况下,一个大人放五六头牛、一个小孩放三四头牛。山路狭窄,山地坡抖,牛多了不好看管。比起其它劳作来讲,放牛应该算是最轻松的活计,一般由老人和小孩来承担。说轻松那也是相对于乡村那些重活计而言,其实放牛并不轻松。小时候我放过牛,上山放牛的情景记忆犹新。江边山坡陡谷深,峭壁嶙峋,赶着牛上坡的时候总是感到心慌气短、四肢无力;赶着牛下坡的时候又总是感到心惊肉跳、四肢酸软。遇到自己放的牛和其它牛群斗架的时候,还要扛起一根长长的棍棒去疏散。要是放牛的时候不小心让牛踩空了脚折断了腿,或是牛群打斗的时候受了伤,那一天晚上就迟迟不敢圈着牛回到家,生怕大人责罚。牛是农民的命根子,江边山的田地要靠牛犁,没有牛,那些田地只能靠人力去挖。
山梁中有树,那是老家人砍木料和砍柴的地方。老家人建房盖屋要到山林深处去砍伐木料,只有山林深处才有又直又粗、质地坚硬的原木。砍木料的地方要选择在位于村寨坐落的那座山上段的斜坡处,否则就无法将砍好的木料运回来。木料砍好了,放上两三个月,晾得半干了才用一根粗壮的藤绳拖回来。砍木料不是一件容易的事,要用专砍木料的锋利斧子,这种斧子只有体力强壮的男人才会使用。同一造型的木架房,房子有高有矮,柱子粗有细,椽条有弯有直,全与砍木料的人有关,看房屋的高低和周正与否便知主人的能耐。那些有强壮劳动力的人家房子盖得高大一些,孤寡人家的房屋盖得矮小一些。
English Translation 英文译文
My hometown perches on the southwestern fringe of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, nestled on a ridge west of the Lancang River. The azure sky, pure white clouds, verdant river waters, and earthy-gray dwellings lend an air of time-worn solemnity and desolation to this ancient village.
It's not just the land that is lonely and sorrowful but also my wandering body and soul. Whether I search for my hometown on the map of China or Yunnan, I cannot pinpoint its exact location, as it is smaller than the tip of a needle. Standing high on the hilltop, gazing towards my hometown, the sun blinds my eyes, and the hardships endured by several generations of my family pierce my heart like the tip of a needle.
I have never mentioned the name of my hometown to outsiders. Among all the rural place names I have heard, my hometown's name is the most rustic and unpretentious. Perhaps that rustic name was a voice raised by the tribal people in hardship during those distant times.
The name of my hometown's village is inherited from an ancient minority language. In those days, the Chinese language had not yet reached this village, and its translation in Chinese roughly means "a place where water is carried in earthen jars." The fact that a village related to water relies on earthen jars to fetch water speaks volumes about water scarcity.
The vast Lancang River is rich in water, yet my hometown, situated along its banks, finds water scarcer than tears.
Earthen jars were the earliest utensils used by the people of my hometown. They could cook food, hold water, store valuable items, and even hold the deceased's ashes. In primitive societies, they were first used in sacrificial activities to house the spiritual objects of ancestors, and archaeologists refer to them as "Pu jars."
Archaeologists believe that wherever there, "Pu jars" once existed in this ancient nation. Wherever this ancient nation lived, one can find fragments of Pu jars. Based on excavations of Pu jars and human activity sites, ancient Pu people have lived there for over 3,000 years. Carrying water in a village in earthen jars for 3,000 years carries not just water but bitter tears.
In the ethnic language of my hometown, the name of my village is perhaps a "bird language" that no one in the world can understand. Having studied Chinese for a lifetime, I have tried to write my hometown's name in Chinese characters, but I cannot find the most accurate words. Perhaps the wordsmiths never invented such a term. Once, a folklore expert asked me to pronounce my hometown's name in my native language so he could follow me. After repeating it three times, no matter how much he tried to correct his pronunciation, it still sounded like the meow of a nocturnal cat. I don't know if such a pronunciation can be represented in the International Phonetic Alphabet.
After all, my hometown is my hometown, and the native soil is the motherland that nurtured me. For this reason, I intend to write a piece about her.
My hometown boasts towering mountains, steep slopes, and deep ravines. The hard rock forms the bones of the hills, the dark, ash-grey soil is their skin, the crystalline springs flowing like tears are their blood, and the vegetation struggling to survive in the crevices is their hair.
My hometown has many mountains, but the ground is hardly level, and the roads are scarcely wide. The topography is diverse, and the names of the mountains are equally eccentric. Some hills are named for their shapes, like Fairy Mountain, Horseback Mountain, Oxhead Mountain, and Grindstone Mountain; others are named for their colours, like Big Black Mountain, Great Green Mountain, Red Soil Mountain, and Yellow Earth Mountain; still others are named for people, such as Aibao Mountain, Nizhang Mountain, Bula Mountain, and Yue'e Mountain; some are named for animals, like Deer Mountain, Muntjac Mountain, Leopard Mountain, Monkey Mountain, and Rock Goat Mountain; some are named for trees, like Camphor Tree Mountain, Olive Tree Mountain, Pine Tree Mountain, White Flower Mountain, Cherry Tree Mountain, Birch Tree Mountain, and Mango Tree Mountain; some are named for stones, like Big Stone Mountain, Small Stone Mountain, Slate Mountain, and Stone Pillar Mountain; and some are named for myths, legends, and stories, like Princess Mountain, Battle Mountain, Ox-Buying Mountain, and Horse-Resting Mountain. Every mountain has a myth, and every piece of land has a story. These myths and stories nourish the souls of the people of my hometown, making them firmly believe that this land is a shared home for both humans and gods.
### Gumiaya: The Mythology of Creation
In the mythology of the Blang people, there is a revered legend known as "Gumiaya." Long ago, the universe was without sky or earth, veiled in a mass of dark, floating clouds and mist. A colossal rhinoceros roamed these ethereal realms, befriending the clouds and keeping company with the fog, wandering freely through the infinite space.
The giant deity Gumiaya and his twelve children transformed the rhinoceros into the world we know. They peeled off its skin to create the sky, adorning it with beautiful clouds. They made stars from its eyes, and from its flesh, they fashioned the earth. Its bones became stones, its blood turned into water, and its tail morphed into various flowers, trees, and plants. Finally, they used their brains to create humans and their marrow to give life to birds, beasts, insects, and fish.
However, the newly formed sky and earth were unstable. To fortify them, Gumiaya used the rhinoceros's four legs as pillars to support the sky and enlisted a giant turtle to hold up the earth. It is believed that earthquakes occur due to the turtle's movements. Thus, the sky stabilised, and the earth solidified. The sky was adorned with beautiful clouds and sparkling stars while life flourished on the planet below. People worked diligently, birds soared through the air, bees sang among the flowers, deer roamed the hillsides, and fish swam in the rivers.
In those ancient times, the mountains of our homeland began to take shape. Judging by their names, it is believed that this land was once a place where dense forests thrived, animals flourished, and humans and gods coexisted harmoniously. Large and small mountains dotting the landscape within a radius of less than a hundred li resemble a steamer filled with steamed bread. During the transition from spring to summer, when the rainy season arrives, the misty mountains and hills emit wisps of smoke, transforming even barren landscapes into a dreamlike, enchanting realm.
The people of our homeland have always relied on the mountains for sustenance. These unassuming mountains have nurtured generation after generation of our fellow citizens. On the mountaintops, meadows serve as grazing grounds for cattle. These grazing areas lie about seven to eight li from the village on the near side and over ten li on the far side. Cattle herders drive the cattle out at dawn after a light breakfast and return only after dark. If they return too early, the cattle won't have eaten enough grass. Lunch, packed in a bamboo box from home, usually consists of a simple cornmeal cake. Several families often entrust one person to look after their cattle to save labour. Typically, one adult handles five or six cattle, while a child manages three or four. The narrow and steep mountain paths make it challenging to oversee many cattle.
Compared to other farmwork, herding cattle is considered the most relaxed task and is often undertaken by older people and children. However, this is only relative to the heavier tasks of rural life; herding cattle is still no easy feat. I herded cattle as a child, and the scenes of grazing on the mountain are vivid in my memory. The slopes by the riverbank are steep and deep, with jagged cliffs. Driving cattle uphill always made me feel anxious and breathless, my limbs weak; descending the slope was equally terrifying, leaving my limbs sore and shaky. If my cattle got into a fight with other herds, I had to use a long stick to disperse them. If a cow accidentally stepped into a hole and broke a leg or got injured during a fight, I would hesitate to bring it home, fearing punishment from the adults. Cattle are the lifeblood of farmers, essential for ploughing the fields along the riverbank. Without them, these fields would have to be dug by hand.
The mountain ridges are home to trees from which locals cut timber and collect firewood. Locals must venture deep into the mountains to build houses to find straight, thick, and sturdy logs. The felling site must be on the upper slope of the hill where the village sits; otherwise, transporting the logs back would be impossible. Once felled, the timber is left to dry for two to three months before being hauled back with a thick vine rope. Felling timber is challenging, requiring a sharp axe explicitly designed for the purpose, and only the physically strong can wield it. The size and quality of a wooden frame house, with its varying heights, the thicknesses of its pillars, and the straightness or curvature of its rafters, all depend on the skill of the timber cutter. One can gauge a homeowner's capability by looking at their house's height and regularity. Families with strong labourers tend to build taller houses, while the homes of widowed or orphaned households are more minor.