密英文《怒江的年味》
📝 作者简介 · Author Bio
密英文,僳僳族,云南省泸水市人,大学,副编审。历任云南省怒江州文联副秘书长、秘书长、副主席等职及《怒江文艺》编辑、常务副主编等职。纟政协怒江州七届委员会常务委员,云南省作协理事,中国作家协会会员。1982年开始从事文学创作,迄今在《诗刊》《民族文学》《西部散文选刊》《滇池》《边疆文学》《云南日报》等近15O种报刊发表作品1500篇(首),430万余字。着有《十九岁的太阳》等6部诗集,《额哈窟底》等9部散文集。曾多次荣获《边疆文学》奖等省级文学奖。为中国作协举办的笫三届少数民族文学创作会议、中国青年作家会议代表。2006年8月,被云南省文联授予"德艺双馨文艺家”。
Mi Yingwen, a distinguished member of the Lisu Ethnic Group, is a native of Lushui City, Yunnan Province. With a university degree and extensive experience in literary circles, he currently serves as the deputy editor-in-chief. His career includes roles as Deputy Secretary-General, Secretary-General, and Vice Chairman of the Nujiang Prefecture Literary and Art Federation, as well as editor and executive deputy chief editor of "Nujiang Literature and Art". Mi Yingwen is a standing committee member of the Seventh Committee of the Nujiang Prefecture Political Consultative Conference and an esteemed member of both the Yunnan Writers' Association and the Chinese Writers' Association. Since embarking on his literary journey in 1982, he has published over 1,500 poems and prose, amounting to more
中文原文 Chinese Source Text
在故乡怒江生活、工作了近半辈子,年也过了几十次,年味就渐渐淡了下来。尤其随着年龄的增大,过年的喜庆感也渐趋麻木,心如止水。今年春节,我却在不经意间又闻到了浓浓的怒江年味。
怒江人爱腌晒腊肉、腊肠,而且喜欢将它们挂在竹竿上晾晒。一天、两天,晾晒数日后,这些腊肉、腊肠就逐渐干瘪,且香味扑鼻了。怒江的年味就这样从僳僳竹楼、怒族石片瓦房、普米木屋、白族三坊一照壁后面轻轻飘荡而出,不一会儿,整个怒江上空弥漫着浓浓的新年味道,久久不散。怒江人腌制的腊肉品种很多,也有一些当地的名优产品,深受人们青睐,诸如白族的老窝火腿,普米族、怒族的琵琶肉,傈僳族的腊猪肉等等。腌制它们的程序复杂,做工需要非常精细,秘方还是祖传的,外人无法轻易获得。怒江的腊肠灌制方法也颇为讲究,既有俗称香肠的肉肠,也有用豆腐灌制而成的豆腐肠等等。怒江人常常将刚腌制、灌好的腊肉、腊肠挂在竹竿或铁丝上晾晒。数日后,年味就从竹竿和铁丝上飘溢开来,晾晒的时间越长,年味越浓。
每年这个季节,我家的年味也很浓,当然也是从挂在竹竿或铁丝上的腊肉、腊肠中溢出的香味。这些腊肉、腊肠大多是亲友送的,也有妻子自制的。尤其我岳父近三年来年年宰杀一头年猪给我。猪种是怒江农村的品种,饲料是当地产的猪草拌玉米面,没有添加任何激素。因而,宰杀出的年猪肉质鲜嫩、味道鲜美,食后对身体无任何副作用。当然,岳父家最初也无力为我喂养年猪。当年,岳父家因为子女多,承包地少,生活十分拮据、一年也只杀得起一头猪。但岳父生性大方又十分疼爱子女,宁愿自家少吃也送肉给已另立门户的子女。因而,作为大女婿的我常常受用特殊待遇,即岳父每年都派弟妹下山送一条猪腿给我。我知道岳父家经济拮据,常常挤出一些钱捎去给岳父用于购买年货或春节后购买化肥什么的开支。后来,弟妹们长大了,有的远嫁他乡,有的在当地安家,他们也时常接济岳父。人口少了,地却不减,粮食收成又好,岳父家生活也慢慢好了起来。从大前年开始,岳父家每年杀两头猪,一头留他们自己食用,一头给我家。尤其去年,岳父家仅玉米收入就达三万余斤。他们出售两万斤用于购买全家一年吃的大米和零花钱外,用另外万余斤玉米作喂猪饲料。因而,当年喂养并宰杀了三头年猪。他们按惯例将宰杀、晒干后的一头年猪给我家食用。岳父送的年猪肉砍成块后,加上其他亲戚送的和妻子自制的腊肉、腊肠,这个季节我们家的确腊香扑鼻,厨房、冰箱、屋前院坝中拉架着的竹竿或铁丝上都挂得满满的,年味也就浓香四溢开来。
有人说,怒江人的太阳是从酒杯中升起的。这话多少有些贬义,但怒江人的热情和豪放与酒有关,这是不争的事实。怒江年味中也散发着醇香的酒味。
怒江人饮用的大都是自家酿的美酒,诸如傈僳族的杵酒、“布汁”酒,普米族的黄酒,怒族、藏族、独龙族的“霞拉”肉酒等等。已推出鸡脚稗酒、怒江荞酒、“干齐瓦”酒等品牌。我是傈僳人,酒友多。今年春节我特意去离我娲居的六库镇不远的泸水市新农村建设试点村密大爹家拜年。未入家门,酒香就伴随着犬吠声和山风脚前脚后地飘荡而至。密大爹和我一样爱饮点小酒,但前几年因为国家征用了他家的承包地,粮食不够吃需要到市场上去买,而国家补偿的征地款又被大儿子买拖拉机花光了,密大爹一家生活一度十分拮据。偏偏密大爹饮酒讲究,从来不饮用杂酒.只饮用傈僳人自酿的“布汁”酒。“布汁”酒比杂酒好喝,但价格也贵(每市斤一般在20元以上)。不买吧可怜大爹,买吧钱又不够,弄得密大爹家人常常为难。作为酒友和晚辈的我知道这一情况之后,常常买好“布汁”酒去到他家和他共饮。慢慢地,我们成了莫逆之交,无话不谈。
其实,在怒江饮酒是一种释放,释放忧愁和憋闷,拥有豪放、粗犷心情的方式。在怒江,在春节或喜庆日,喜悦是大家相互分享的,伤心和痛苦被悄悄地晾在一边。豪放是一种性格,是必需的,怒江人没有那么多的矫情、扭捏。我从怒江东岸的山寨畅饮而归,怒江西寨的人家又邀我再饮。说什么一年就这么享乐几天,应不醉不归。我刚饮完傈僳人的“同心酒”,怒族友人又递来“霞拉”肉酒。我刚放下普米族人的“黄酒”碗,白族朋友又递过来“三道酒”……怒江的年味中的确不能没有酒香,酒香飘溢在节日怒江的空气中。
年味是喷香的,喜庆的。怒江人的年味,在怒江澡塘会上尤其味道十足。澡塘会是火爆的,人山人海。本地的、外地的、省内的、省外的,甚而外国的朋友们都蜂拥而至,把春节的澡塘会挤窄了、挤小了。当然,人们在这里享受到了大自然的和谐和怒江各民族文化的瑰丽华章,体味了喷香、喜庆的怒江年味。澡塘会上的年味是喷香的,散发着栗炭火与肉香、米香、酒香的融汇、弥漫。傈僳人的乳猪肉在三脚架上烤得焦黄、怒族人的石板粑粑鲜嫩无比、独龙族人的董棕粉微苦带香、普米族的“黄酒”色香味醇,就连射弩比赛夺冠者的奖品也是一块硕大的糯米粑粑。冠军将这硕大的糯米粑粑挂在弩弓上,走街串巷地扛着,多么荣耀,招蜂引蝶。一路也就把糯米的香味散得到处都是,使人真切地体味到浓浓的怒江年味。
澡塘会的年味又是喜庆的、幸福的。“摆时”对歌,年年爆满。有位歌手去年和阿妹相邀今年再聚,不知今年可否能姻缘联牵;姑娘、小伙子们荡着秋千,笑声不断,是要荡涤疲倦和辛劳、迎接新年的福气。转转车转动的,不仅仅是岁月的艰辛,更多的是时光馈赠的美酒……怒江的欢乐是由衷的,怒江澡塘会上的年味是轻松、和谐、散淡的,更是喜庆、幸福的。
我吮吸着怒江澡塘会上的年味,顿觉神清气爽,不禁亲切满怀。对物也好,或对人和事都充满了爱意。此刻,怒江峡谷中的木棉花绽放如织,红艳艳的,怒江水湛蓝无垠,像已停止了流动和吼叫似的。不论相识的,或是陌生的,在澡塘会上相聚之后大都能亲密无间,大家都融汇在怒江澡塘会暖暖的阳光之中,享受着怒江喷香、喜庆、幸福的年味。
The Taste of Nujiang River Year
English Translation 英文译文
I have spent nearly half my life living and working in my hometown, Nujiang, and have celebrated numerous Spring Festivals. Over the years, the festive atmosphere has gradually faded. As I grow older, the joy of the New Year has dulled, leaving my heart as calm as a still lake. Yet, this Spring Festival, I unexpectedly caught the strong scent of the Nujiang New Year.
In Nujiang, people love to pickle and dry bacon and sausages, hanging them on bamboo poles to dry. After a few days, these meats dry out and emit a delicious aroma. This scent wafts from the Lisu bamboo houses, Nu stone-tile houses, Pumi wooden houses, and Bai's traditional three workshops and one wall. Soon, the entire sky over Nujiang is filled with this rich New Year aroma, lingering for a long time. The people of Nujiang make various types of bacon, some of which are local specialities, such as the Bai's Lao Wo ham, the lute-shaped meat of the Pumi and Nu people, and the Lisu bacon. These delicacies require intricate craftsmanship, with recipes passed down through generations and rarely shared with outsiders. The sausage-making process in Nujiang is also meticulous, including traditional and tofu sausages. Freshly pickled and filled, these items are hung on bamboo poles or iron wires to dry. As they dry, the New Year scent grows more robust.
Every year around this time, the aroma of the New Year fills my home, primarily from the bacon and sausages hanging on bamboo poles or iron wires. These delectable items mostly come as gifts from relatives and friends, with some made by my wife. My father-in-law has been slaughtering a pig for us annually for the past three years. This pig, a breed from the Nujiang countryside, is fed only locally produced pigweed mixed with cornmeal, without any additives. As a result, the meat is tender, delicious, and free of any adverse effects on the body.
My father-in-law's family initially couldn't afford to raise a pig for us. With many children, limited land, and tight living conditions, they could only manage to kill one pig a year. Despite this, my generous and loving father-in-law would still send meat to his married children, even if it meant less for his own family. As the eldest son-in-law, I often received special treatment, such as a pig leg yearly. Aware of their financial struggles, I frequently sent money to help them buy New Year goods or fertilizers after the Spring Festival.
Over time, as my siblings grew up, some moved away while others stayed nearby, and they started to support my father-in-law with fewer people to feed and the same amount of land; their grain harvests improved, gradually enhancing their living conditions. Starting two years ago, my father-in-law's family began slaughtering two pigs annually—one for their use and one for us. Last year, they had an outstanding year, earning over 30,000 jin of corn. They sold 20,000 jin for rice and pocket money for the year, using the remaining 10,000 jin as pig feed. Consequently, they raised and slaughtered three pigs that year, gifting us one, which we prepared and dried according to tradition.
After cutting the pork sent by my father-in-law into pieces and adding the bacon and sausages from other relatives and those made by my wife, our home was filled with the delicious scent of bacon. The kitchen, refrigerator, and bamboo poles or iron wires hanging in the yard were all adorned with these treats, filling the air with the unmistakable fragrance of the New Year.
Some say that the sun for the Nu River people rises from a wine cup. While this might sound derogatory to some, it’s undeniably true that their enthusiasm and boldness are closely tied to their love for alcohol. The air of the Nu River region is perpetually infused with the rich aroma of liquor, especially during the festive season.
Most of the liquor enjoyed by the Nu River people is homemade, such as the Chui liquor and Buzhi liquor of the Lisu ethnic group, the yellow rice wine of the Pumi people, and the Xiala meat liquor cherished by the Nu, Tibetan, and Dulong ethnic groups. Commercial brands like Jijiaofu liquor, Nu River buckwheat liquor, and Ganqiwa liquor have also gained popularity.
As a member of the Lisu community myself, I have many drinking companions. This past Spring Festival, I made a memorable trip to visit Uncle Miada’s family in a pilot village for new rural construction in Lushui City, not far from my home in Liuku Town. Before I entered the house, the aroma of liquor, mingling with the barking of dogs and the rustling mountain wind, greeted me warmly.
Uncle Miada, like me, has a fondness for a good drink. However, in recent years, due to the state requisitioning his contracted land, he had to buy grain from the market, which strained his finances. The compensation he received was spent by his eldest son on a tractor, leaving the family in a difficult situation. Despite these challenges, Uncle Miada remained particular about his liquor, refusing to drink anything but the Buzhi liquor made by the Lisu people. Though it’s more expensive (generally over 20 yuan per jin), its superior taste made it worth the cost. Knowing his predicament, I often brought Buzhi liquor to share with him. Over time, we became close, sharing our worries and joys.
In the Nu River region, drinking liquor is a way to release worries and embrace a bold, carefree spirit. During the Spring Festival or other festive occasions, joy is a communal experience, while sorrow is quietly set aside. Boldness is essential for the Nu River people, who are neither overly sentimental nor shy.
After a hearty drinking session in the mountain village on the east bank of the Nu River, I was invited by the west town to join their festivities. They insisted that one should not return until thoroughly drunk during these few joyous days of the year. I had just finished the Tongxin liquor of the Lisu people when a Nu friend offered me Xiala meat liquor. I had barely put down the bowl of yellow rice wine from the Pumi people when a Bai friend handed me Sandao liquor. Indeed, the essence of the Nu River's annual celebrations is steeped in the fragrance of liquor, which fills the air and spirits of everyone during the festival.
The annual flavour is fragrant and festive, and nowhere is it more potent than during the Nu River Bath Festival, where the richness of the Nu River people’s traditions is fully displayed.
The essence of the New Year is both aromatic and festive. This sentiment is especially pronounced among the Nu River people during the Nu River Bath Festival. The festival is lively, teeming with locals, visitors from other provinces, nationals, and even international guests, converging to the point where the festival ground feels more compact and intimate. Here, people revel in the unity with nature and the grand cultural expressions of the various ethnic groups in the Nu River region, immersing themselves in the fragrant and celebratory atmosphere of the New Year. The aroma at the Bath Festival is a delightful mix of charcoal fires, meat, rice, and liquor, permeating the air. The Lisu people's roasted suckling pig, crispy and golden; the Nu people's tender stone slab pancake; the Dulong people's subtly bitter yet fragrant dong palm powder; and the Pumi people's richly coloured and flavorful "yellow wine" all contribute to the sensory feast. Even the prize for the champion of the crossbow competition is a sizeable glutinous rice pancake, which the winner proudly parades through the streets, spreading the sweet scent of glutinous rice and embodying the robust New Year's spirit of the Nu River.
The New Year's atmosphere at the Bath Festival is both festive and joyous. The "Bai Shi" singing competition is always fully booked, with singers hoping to reunite with sweethearts and perhaps tie the knot. Young women and men laugh heartily as they swing, shedding the fatigue and hardships of the past year to welcome new fortunes. The rotary car spins away the year's challenges, offering the fine wine of time as its gift. The joy of the Nu River flows from the heart, and the New Year's spirit at the Bath Festival is one of relaxation, harmony, spontaneity, festivity, and happiness.
Breathing in the New Year's essence at the Nu River Bath Festival fills me with a refreshing sense of affection and love for both things and people. The kapok flowers in the Nu River Gorge bloom densely in vibrant red, and the Nu River's blue waters seem boundless, as if they’ve paused their flow and roar. Whether familiar or strangers, people quickly form close bonds at the Bath Festival. Everyone basks in the warm sunshine, savouring the Nu River New Year's fragrant, festive, and joyous spirit.