张雁《护林员伊万》
📝 作者简介 · Author Bio
张雁,女,俄罗斯族,现任内蒙古自治区额尔古纳市文化馆馆长,内蒙古自治区第十一、十二、十三、十四届人大代表,鲁迅文学院第十二届少数民族作家高级研讨班学员。作品有系列散文《珍藏》《护林员伊万》《我遥远的家园》,创作了歌曲《我的额尔古纳河》《情满巴斯克节》《爱在最北疆》等(作词),并获得奖项。
Zhang Yan, a member of the Russian ethnic group, currently directs the Erguna City Cultural Center in the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. She serves as a deputy to the 11th, 12th, 13th, and 14th People's Congresses of the Inner Mongolia Autonomous Region. She is an alumna of the 12th Minority Writers Advanced Seminar at the Lu Xun Literary Institute. Her literary works include prose collections like "Treasured Memories," "Forest Ranger Ivan," and "My Remote Homeland." She has also written songs, including "My Erguna River," "Love Overflows at the Basque Festival," and "Love in the Northernmost Frontier" (lyrics), earning various accolades.
中文原文 Chinese Source Text
张宝柱是第一代华俄后裔,虽然有一个极具中国特色的名字,却是一幅欧洲人的面孔。深陷的眼窝下一双湖蓝色的眼眸、高挺的鼻梁、棕色头发柔软地贴合着额头,身材高大魁梧,尤其是手掌,大得出奇。在户口本上他是张宝柱,祖籍是河北省,可绝大多数认识他的人只叫他伊万,张宝柱这个名字早就被人遗忘了,伊万虽然只是个名字,却是他俄罗斯母亲留给他的唯一的记忆。
伊万出生在中俄边境的额尔古纳河畔,一个天、地、水、森林合而为一的地方。这条流淌了千年的河流,目睹了蒙古人策马扬鞭挺进中原的脚步,也孕育了一个欧亚融合的民族。伊万的父亲在20世纪初,随着浩浩荡荡的闯关东队伍从中原河北一路北上来到了额尔古纳河沿岸,淘过金、伐过木。他的母亲叫梅沙,俄罗斯人,金发碧眼、身段苗条,性格开朗。没有人说得清楚,到底是在哪一个月黑风高的寒冷冬夜,张宝柱的母亲梅纱,在怎样的境遇下榻冰而来,来到了她完全陌生的额尔古纳河右岸,怎样结识了憨厚老实的伊万的父亲,河北人张忠民,在语言完全不通的情形下,两人又是怎样走进了森林木屋,为伊万带来了这风雨飘摇的一生……
伊万留在了老乡留下来的木刻楞里,留在了母亲和哥哥身边,13岁就自立门户。混血儿的优秀基因使伊万天生心灵手巧,他继承了父亲中原人的吃苦耐劳和母亲斯拉夫人的温柔细腻,在老乡留下的土地里认真的耕耘,为自己挣得了饭吃。
伊万出生的这个小山村名叫室韦,俄语叫吉拉林。这里依山傍水,额尔古纳河在村旁缓缓流过,河的对岸是俄罗斯一个叫做奥洛契的小村子,两个村庄被额尔古纳河隔开,鸡犬相闻。在村子的正南方,是连绵起伏的山脉,山上神秘而浩瀚的原始森林与小兴安岭相接,茂密的千年古树挡住了外界与这里的联系。直到上个世纪末,小山村里的人们仍然过着日出而作、日落而息,简朴宁静的生活。这里的居民有百分之四十是和伊万一样的华俄后裔,还有几位出生在俄罗斯本土,年幼时随家人来到了这里,与当地人组成了中俄融合的家庭,中俄文化在这里交流、碰撞、融合,形成了独特的俄罗斯族文化。
伊万不太喜欢和人交往,他喜欢大山和森林,山林让他不会感到孤独和寂寞。他热爱森林里的一草一木,獐狍獾鹿像是他一见如故的老朋友,他和它们和睦相处,渐渐的,他离不开山林了。上世纪五十年代初,乡里需要一位护林员,伊万成了第一人选,从此,他伴着他的山林,履行着护林员的职责。
伊万和生活在这里的俄罗斯族一样,沿袭了中俄融合的生活方式、节日和礼仪,既过中国的春节,也过俄罗斯族的巴斯克节。每到节日,他会将自己的小屋收拾一新,清扫供奉的神龛,认真的做弥撒。还会为自己准备干净整洁的衣服,包冻饺子,打列吧,制作俄式面包。节日的时候,他会带着自制的赫列吧、肉干等食品偶尔的串串门,和朋友们一起喝酒,庆祝节日。
伊万18岁这一年,爱情悄悄地来到了他的身边。他爱上了村里张木匠的女儿秋芳。张木匠是山东人,大约与伊万的父亲同一年代来到了额尔古纳河畔。不同的是他是携妻带子不远万里来到这里的,秋芳是来到额尔古纳河畔后出生的,与伊万同年。
秋芳是个泼辣的山东妹子,一头乌黑的长发被编成了两条泛着光亮的辫子,在一次村里组织的集体劳动中伊万结识了她。别看只是个女孩子,可干起活来毫不逊色。秋芳不停地甩动着因为弯腰而滑落的辫子,伊万被这优美的弧线吸引了,坠入了爱河。其实,那个时候,汉族人对俄罗斯族是有偏见的,没有几个汉族姑娘愿意嫁给这个中俄融合的民族的小伙子。就是在那次集体劳动过程中,上帝注定的缘分让秋芳对伊万刮目相看了,这个腼腆的俄罗斯族小伙子也走进了她的心里。
那个年代,拖拉机在偏远山村还很少见,乡里唯一的一台拖拉机每天忙个不停。伊万对机械具有天生的敏感,他只是跟着拖拉机手干了几次活,便基本熟悉了这个大家伙的性能,拖拉机手偷懒儿的时候,伊万便代替他在田野里工作。这次集体劳动是春季植树,伊万开着拖拉机负责往山上拉水,浇灌刚刚载下的树苗。看到眼中没有风景的亿万只是埋头干活,秋芳几次想和他说话都咽了回去,可爱情的小树苗却深深地扎根了。
从小到大,伊万身上穿的衣服都是好心的村民送给他的,从未穿过新衣服的他,特意请去村外办事的人帮忙买了一件白衬衫,这是他第一次穿新衣服。穿上新衬衫,伊万怀着忐忑不安的心情敲响了秋芳家的门,他去求婚了。秋芳的父母热情地接待了伊万,他们十分喜欢朴实能干的伊万。但当伊万提出自己的想法的时候,秋芳的父母犯难了。一方面他们对伊万的遭遇十分同情,也对伊万的人品非常认可,可孤儿出身的伊万一无所有,女儿嫁过去生活会非常的艰难。见到秋芳父母为难的表情,伊万低着头,语气坚定地说,我有一双手,不会让秋芳过苦日子的。这时,躲在里屋的秋芳红着脸跑了出来,对父母说,他人好,我不怕苦……
秋芳的父母同意了两个人的婚事,决定当年春节为两个人举行婚礼。转眼秋天到了,亿万忙活着修房子、做家具,秋芳也偷偷地准备着两个人的棉衣棉被,盼望着新年快点到来。两个人每次见面都一句话不说,只是埋头做着自己的事情。
秋天,是额尔古纳河畔最美丽妖娆的季节。河水经过一个春夏的涨落变得平静而温柔,看久了,那河水仿佛就凝固了,让人有亲近的欲望。山林则变得华丽而多姿多彩,松树依然翠绿,而白桦和其他灌木的叶子在秋风秋雨的抚摸下好似竞相绽放的花朵,有金黄的、有紫红的,远远望去,那连绵起伏的山脉好似一幅优雅而多情的油画。这个季节是采摘山果的好时候。这一天,秋芳和几个姐妹约好去山里采稠李子,可这一去就再也没有回来。
乡里发动了所有青壮年男子,在山里找了一天一夜,最后在一颗稠李子树的枝条上发现了秋芳身上红格子衬衫的衣袖和树下的一只布鞋,柳条筐碎了,地上到处是被碾碎了的稠李子果实,黑红的一片。据说,那一年常常有黑熊在那一片山林出没……
亿万把自己关在修缮一新的房子里整整三天三夜,当他再一次走出房子时,棕色的头发变得花白了,从那以后,再也没有哪个女人出现在他深湖般蔚蓝的眼眸里。
Forest Ranger Ivan
English Translation 英文译文
Zhang Baozhu, a descendant of the first generation of Chinese-Russian mixed ancestry, carried a name steeped in Chinese tradition yet possessed a European countenance. His deep-set eyes glowed with a lake-blue hue beneath his high, straight nose, and his soft brown hair fell gracefully across his forehead. He stood tall and sturdy, his hands remarkably large. On his household registration form, he was listed as Zhang Baozhu, with his ancestral home in Hebei Province, but most who knew him called him Ivan. The name Zhang Baozhu had long been forgotten, and Ivan, though just a name, was the only memory left by his Russian mother.
Ivan was born by the banks of the Erguna River on the China-Russia border, in a place where sky, earth, water, and forest merged into one. This river, which had flowed for millennia, witnessed the Mongolian hordes galloping into the Central Plains and nurtured a Eurasian fusion of ethnicities. Ivan's father travelled north from Hebei in the early 20th century, following pioneers who ventured east, panning for gold and logging. His mother, Meisha, a Russian woman with golden hair and azure eyes, was slender and cheerful. No one knew precisely on which cold winter night, under the cover of darkness, Meisha crossed the frozen river to arrive at the unfamiliar right bank of the Erguna River. How she met Ivan's father, Zhang Zhongmin, and how the two, with no common language, found their way into a wooden hut in the forest, giving Ivan this precarious life, remained a mystery.
Ivan remained in the wooden house left by his fellow villagers, staying by his mother and brother's side. At just 13 years old, he became independent. The superior genes of his mixed heritage gave Ivan an inherent ingenuity. He inherited his father's hardworking spirit from the Central Plains and his mother's tenderness and delicacy from the Slavs. He cultivated the land left by his compatriots with dedication, earning his livelihood.
The small village where Ivan was born is called Shiwei, known in Russian as Jilalin. Nestled amidst mountains and water, the Erguna River flowed gently past the village. Across the river lay a small Russian town called Olochy. Separated by the Erguna River, the two villages coexisted in harmony. To the city's south lay a range of continuous mountains, where the mysterious and vast virgin forest connected with the Lesser Khingan Mountains. Dense ancient trees blocked off contact with the outside world. Until the end of the last century, the villagers still led a simple and serene life, rising with the sun and resting with its setting. Forty per cent of the residents here were descendants of Chinese-Russian mixed heritage like Ivan, with a few who were born in Russia but came here with their families as children, forming Sino-Russian blended families. Chinese and Russian cultures intermingled, collided, and fused, creating a unique Russian ethnic culture.
Ivan didn't particularly enjoy socialising with people. He preferred the mountains and forests, which never made him feel lonely or isolated. He loved every tree and blade of grass in the forest, treating them like old friends he had known for a long time. He coexisted harmoniously with them, gradually becoming inseparable from the mountains and forests. In the early 1950s, Ivan was the first choice when the township needed a forest ranger. From then on, he accompanied his mountains and forests, fulfilling his duties as a forest ranger.
Like the Russian ethnic group living there, Ivan followed the Sino-Russian blended way of life, festivals, and etiquette, celebrating the Chinese Spring Festival and the Russian Bashkir Festival. During festivals, he would clean and decorate his small house, sweep the shrine, and perform the liturgy with sincerity. He would also prepare clean and tidy clothes for himself, make frozen dumplings, bake rye bread, and prepare Russian-style bread. On festival days, he occasionally visited friends with homemade rye bread, dried meat, and other foods, sharing drinks and celebrating the festivities.
When Ivan turned 18, love quietly came to his side. He fell in love with Qiu Fang, the daughter of the village's carpenter, Zhang. Carpenter Zhang was from Shandong and arrived by the Erguna River around the same time as Ivan's father. The difference was that he brought his wife and children here from afar. Qiu Fang was born after they arrived by the Erguna River and was the same age as Ivan.
Qiu Fang was a feisty girl from Shandong with long black hair braided into two shiny plaits. Ivan met her during a collective labour organised by the village. Despite being just a girl, she worked as hard as any man. Qiu Fang constantly flicked away her braids, which had slipped due to bending over. Ivan was captivated by the graceful arc and fell in love with her. In fact, during that time, the Han people had prejudices against the Russian ethnic group, and few Han girls were willing to marry young men from this Sino-Russian mixed ethnic group. However, during that collective labour, fate destined that Qiu Fang would take a new look at Ivan, and this shy young Russian man also entered her heart.
In that era, tractors were still rare in remote mountain villages, and the only tractor in the township was constantly busy. Ivan had a natural sensitivity to machinery. He could grasp the machine's essential functions after assisting the tractor operator a few times. When the tractor operator slacked off, Ivan would take his place to work in the fields. This collective labour was for spring tree planting, and Ivan drove the tractor to haul water up the mountain to water the newly planted saplings. Seeing Ivan, who seemed oblivious to the scenery and busily working, Qiu Fang wanted to talk to him several times but held back. However, the tiny seedling of love had deeply taken root.
From childhood to adulthood, Ivan's clothes were given to him by kind villagers, and he had never worn new clothes before. He specially asked someone outside the village to buy a white shirt for him, which was his first new outfit. Wearing the new shirt, Ivan knocked on Qiu Fang's door with a nervous heart to propose to her. Qiu Fang's parents warmly welcomed Ivan and liked his simplicity and hardworking nature. However, when Ivan expressed his intentions, Qiu Fang's parents were troubled. On one hand, they sympathised with Ivan's situation. They recognised his excellent character, but on the other hand, Ivan, an orphan with nothing to his name, would make life difficult for their daughter if she married him. Seeing the troubled expressions on Qiu Fang's parents' faces, Ivan lowered his head and said firmly, "I have a pair of hands and won't let Qiu Fang suffer." At this moment, Qiu Fang, hiding in the inner room, blushed and said to her parents, "He's a good person, and I'm not afraid of hardship..."
Qiu Fang's parents agreed to their marriage and decided to hold the wedding during the Spring Festival of that year. Soon, autumn came, and Ivan was busy repairing the house and making furniture. At the same time, Qiu Fang secretly prepared cotton-padded clothes and quilts for them, eagerly anticipating the coming of the New Year. They would not utter words whenever they met, just burying themselves in their tasks.
Autumn was the most beautiful and enchanting season by the Erguna River. After the rise and fall of the river water in spring and summer, it became calm and gentle. After staring at it for a long time, the river water seemed to solidify, making people desire to get close to it. The forest became gorgeous and colourful. The pine trees remained verdant, while the leaves of birch and other shrubs, under the touch of autumn wind and rain, seemed to bloom like flowers in competition, with golden yellow and purplish red hues. From afar, the rolling mountains resembled an elegant and sentimental oil painting. This season was an excellent time to pick wild fruits. One day, Qiu Fang and several sisters agreed to go to the mountains to pick wild plums, but she never returned.
The township mobilised all the young and strong men to search for her in the mountains for a day and a night. Finally, they found Qiu Fang's red-checkered shirt sleeve on a branch of a wild plum tree and a cloth shoe under it. The wicker basket was broken, and the ground was littered with crushed wild plum fruits, a mass of black and red. It was said that black bears often appeared in that area that year.
Ivan shut himself in the newly repaired house for three days and three nights. When he came out again, his brown hair had turned hoary. Since then, no woman has ever appeared in his deep blue eyes like a lake.